
I visited Russia several times in the mid 1990s, when my son Jon was living and working there. He introduced us to his friends Sergei and Lena (above), who are the subjects of the poem In the Brezhnev Blocks.
Prince Myshkin
The Raven’s Gift
In the Brezhnev Blocks
On the Canal, St. Petersburg
Visiting the Dead
Photos by Susan Snydal
Prince Myshkin
He, the fool hero, holds things holy, Weights his words. When he walks into a room People there grow silent as he slowly Finds the center. All his smiles assume An answer. If you think to catch his eye, It's caught and he will move to you as if You were the reason he was there. You lie And bow and nod and speak, polite and stiff. Those eyes are always caught and no one knows Exactly what they see or why they seem So innocent and open. Now he goes. He leaves you as one leaves a fever dream. Later when you try to call to mind Precisely what was said and what replied You can't. You know he knew just where to find You in your silence and he knew you lied.

Prince Myshkin was the tragic hero of Dostoevsky’s novel The Idiot.
Illustration by Ilya Sergeevich Glazunov, 1956
The Raven’s Gift
Big black jackbird, strutting with your fellows, Grinning in this grimy courtyard. You fill These ragged spaces, Romanov yellows, With your flirt and flutter. You spot the sill With droppings and your drooping eye watches A leaf fall, a door close, a drop of rain. When the sky growls and the quick rain splotches Dust with drops, more drops, you seek shelter. Sane And sage, you know that what starts, stops. You stop What you were doing when I leave the stoop. You watch me walking. When I look you hop And hunch and hide your eye. You leave your troop Of proud oprichniki. You clap the stiff Sleeves of your leather jacket. Moskvich, lift My spirits. Leave a black feather as if Night were my birthday and you were my gift.

Oprichniki were the black-clad, raven-like order of secret police that terrorized Muscovy in service to Ivan the Terrible in the late 16th century. Photo by Kasturi Roy.
In the Brezhnev Blocks
Kuntsyevo Metro, Stalin's stop. It's six O'clock. In the flat we remove our shoes. Sergei turns the TV on and they fix Dinner. We listen to a Russian choose Words that Lorne Green spoke thirty years ago. Lena brings selyanka and bread. Our hosts Serve Pepsi, cognac, Fanta. Little Joe Swings off his horse. The room is full of ghosts. Salt cucumbers, yellow potatoes, beef, Cabbage, onion. Our son's friends are the cooks. We drink to him, to friendship, to brief Beginnings, to poetry, to Russian books. There are rugs on the walls. There is black bread, Salt, vodka, music, a full Russian meal. What will be drunk stays on the table. Dead Soldiers sprawl on the floor. Why do we feel That we have been here before? Why do we Start to forget in Russian when we drink? Why do we start to remember to be The same people that we once were? I think The guitar knows. You don't have to have read Dostoevsky to recognize that in This small Moscow flat right now no one's dead, And no one's waiting for life to begin. Sergei takes his wife's hand. They honor us, Bow to us as Russians. So we must rise And bow in turn. We are honored because Russians may so treat their guests. Lena's eyes Gleam green. She dances to Sergei's guitar, Gypsy chords, rhythms. Then he sings of Her green eyes and what they were and are. In brusque Russian he tells us that they love Us, kak mama, kak papa. We are parts Abruptly, of their family, belong To this Moscow evening, these Russian hearts. And all of this in the space of a song. How simple it was then, to think that we Could return the next year and pick up where We sat on our luggage for luck, to be Safe on our journey and welcomed back there, When we had already said our last good-byes. That was the something we didn't know then. Everything changes when you close your eyes. We are always on that journey. It's when You want the clock to stand still that space must Keep its distance. Of course that's what you find Out later. We possess in space but trust In time and seldom see the two combined. I remember this. How we danced and talked. How Sergei's face crumpled into tears when We left. How we fed the wild squirrels and walked To the Moscow River and the boatmen Shared our singing and our picnic. How eyes Smiled at each other and at us. How They gave us gift for gift. And the surprise Of knowing that such gifts are given now. The presence of a Russia we did not Suspect. A distant relative, pleasant But shy, a proud eccentric who has brought Everyone an unexpected present.

Sergei and Lena in their apartment, 1994.
Brezhnev blocks (“brezhnevki” in Russian) refer to the thousands of identical concrete apartment blocks built in the suburbs of Moscow in the 1970s. While drab and brutal outside, they are quite warm and cozy inside.
On the Canal, St. Petersburg
Sleeshkom doraga. It's too much, too dear, This boatride through the granite canals where The empty vodka bottles disappear. They say each time you dip your fingers there, It's new. You never touch it twice. And who Can argue with that? I can only stand On the landing, counting. I see the new Neva and the new money in my hand. The boatman speaks in Russian. He repeats: Vosyemdyeset tisyech. And it's too dear. Forty dollars to slide by the stone streets Where Gogol wears his overcoat, to hear The droshky drivers, the October rain, Pasternak cursing. And I can't explain To this shrugging Russian why his city's river Is too dear, too deep, too distant to deliver.

Griboedov Canal, St Petersburg, 1994
Sleeshkom doraga – too expensive
Vosyemdyeset tisyech – 80,000 rubles, or about 40 US dollars
Visiting the Dead
I call on Napoleon. The deep well holds Remains of the First Empire, surrounded By the splendid dead of the France they founded, Marshalled under gold leaf and marble folds. Outside it rains. Inside, the mystery Of death becomes a page of history. Karl der Grosse lies in Aachen. I feel The fluted stone above his body, stand Before the triptych that once felt his hand, See the silver that magnified his meal, And try to understand how granite can Contain the greatness that contained a man. Deep in Vienna's heart the Habsburgs sleep, Cradled in caskets of castiron and stone. They slumber best who do not sleep alone And cannot care whose company they keep. I sit and sip mélange until we meet And marvel at the sunlight in the street. Can we remember what must be buried? I have seen Lenin lie like a wax doll In a hushed chamber. Behind on the wall Tablets mark the revolutionaried Few whose bodies' proletarian presence Reassures the workers and the peasants. I'll have no such solemn end. I'll molder Incognito, my bones becoming earth Anonymous, anonymous as birth. My body will decide to grow no older, And people in their living rooms will see No more than they have ever seen of me.

Lenin in his tomb